Question:
How can I set the Canon 70D to focus on everything in the image?
Martin
2015-05-24 15:46:46 UTC
With the focus settings i've been playing with, I'm not able to figure out how to get everything in focus, put only a focal point. I have wide angle Canon 10MM, and I set the aperture to f5.6. It seems i always have to choose a point to focus on and then the rest is not as clear.

thank you
Seventeen answers:
Jack
2015-05-24 16:05:26 UTC
The fact that you mentioned your lens, and emphasised that it was wide angle, makes we think you've been watching to much DigitalRev TV. What Kai says about wide angle lenses "always having everything in focus" is only true under 2 circumstances:



1: The lens is a fisheye (which yours isn't)

2: The aperture is narrow enough.



As Robster (great name by the way) mentioned, your aperture has a big part to play in what is in focus. f5.6 will keep everything relatively in focus, provided your subject is fairly close to your lens. If you are taking a landscape shot, or a photo of something in the distance, f5.6 is way too open. For general shooting, don't let the aperture go wider than f8 if you want most things in focus. For far away things, or when there is a lot in the frame at various distances, you should keep your aperture as narrow as possible (e.g f16 or above). f22-f28 is as high as most lenses go. These are ideal, but not always possible for correct exposure or appropriate in certain situations.



And in terms of the focus points, I'm not sure I grasp what you mean. If you have your AF zone set to manual, then you can only pick one focus point by yourself, unless your camera has group area AF. It may well have this, but I'm not a Canon user so I don't know. Check your manual to make sure

If the AF zone is set to auto, then the camera picks the focus area for you. My Nikon picks multiple points when set to this mode, but again I don't know about your Canon. I wouldn't recommend staying in auto AF all the time, as it isn't always accurate.
?
2015-05-25 09:50:46 UTC
The technique that will help you is called hyper-focal focusing. The concept is based on the fact that each f/stop on any given lens produces a specific amount of depth of field depending upon the focusing distance. That is to say that all 10mm lenses (regardless if it's on a micro 4/3, APS-C or full-frame camera) will produce the exact same amount of depth of field for any given combination aperture and focusing distance.



The key here is to know that the depth of field extends roughly 1/3 in front of the point of focus and 2/3 behind. So, if you should focus the lens at infinity, and choose say f/16, 1/3 of the depth of field would be in front of the point of focus (infinity) and the other 2/3 would be beyond infinity. Obviously, this is wasting depth of field because there's no such thing as going beyond infinity unless your name is Buzz Lightyear. So, to not waste the depth of field, you would focus closer so that the depth of field extends far enough behind the point of focus to get everything behind it in focus.

Take a look at the lens below (*taken from kenrockwell.com). The depth of field scale shows you that at f/8, this lens focused at about 20' will get 10' to infinity in focus. How to get the largest possible depth of field? Just put the infinity mark at the f/16 mark on the right and set your aperture to f/16. This allows you to get much more depth of field than just using f/16 and focusing at infinity.



The problem that most people have is that this scale isn't on zoom lenses - one of the advantages of using prime lenses. Fortunately, all you need is a free app and a smartphone to calculate the focusing distance for any given focal length.

Most cameras today have a depth of field preview button so you can see the DOF increase from wide open (the point the lens is set when looking through it normally) to the point at which the aperture will be during the exposure. Reviewing the image by zooming in on the LCD screen is a critical step in ensuring correct focus.



Here's an article explaining it in better detail: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/hyperfocal-distance.htm
2016-03-10 02:45:42 UTC
Shooting exteriors is not typically a big problem since you're outside with plenty of light and are usually positioned a distance away from the building, which reduces focus problems. Simply use as small an aperture as is practical for the situation and you'll be fine. Shooting interiors is a whole other problem — much more difficult.
Nick P.
2015-05-25 18:16:02 UTC
You need to learn more about photography. A night school course would be a great benefit for you. You also sound like a person who has fallen for the "line" put forth here that in order to take good pictures you need to own a DSLR like the Canon 70D. Like anything else, not starting from the bottom of the learning ladder can be frusterating. A lens opening (aperture) of f/5.6 is not a good lens opening to provide enough depth of field to accomplish what you want to. Your best lens openings to use are the smallest ones available on your lens. As example f/22, f/16, f/11 & f/8 give the best depth of field (or focus-distance in front & behind subject matter that appears in focus).

IF you don't have time for a night school course, may I suggestj books by the author Scot Kelby. Check the table of contents and chapter headings for subjects regaring depth of field. Mr. Kelby also gives access to his web site which gives real world examples of the lesson he is referring to.



Good Luck
B K
2015-05-25 07:58:48 UTC
Choose f/8 to f/16. Focus on infinity or something distant in the background.



Depth of field:

10mm at f/8 on an APS-c camera

Near limit: 2.15 ft (anything closer will start to blur).

Far limit: Infinity (everything from 2.15 ft to infinity will be in focus).



These are f/stops landscape photographers use to ensure the deepest possible depth of field and maximum sharpness of the image. Lenses are always sharpest stopped down a few stops from maximum.



Use a tripod and a shutter remote if you can't get a fast enough shutter speed to hand hold the camera.



Don't stop down to f/22 or higher or you will get diffraction problems which will reduce clarity.
?
2015-05-24 15:51:22 UTC
Aperture setting affects depth of field. That's the front to back distance within the photo which appears to be in the sharp focus range.



If you want a greater depth of field then choose a smaller aperture (higher number) and use hyperfocal focussing techniques. If you learn how to creatively use depth of field and hyperfocal focussing you'll be able to achieve far more.
2015-05-27 04:08:07 UTC
You need to set the aperture smaller, thus use a bigger f-number such as f11. That will help. But if the nearest thing is very close to the lens then not even f11 or f16 will make everything from front to back clear.
?
2015-05-28 19:38:18 UTC
The AF (autofocus) Area mode setting on your Canon EOS 70D determines which of the 19 autofocus points the camera uses to establish focusing distance. At the default setting, all points are in play, and the camera typically focuses on the closest object, but you can choose to base focus on one of five focusing zones or on a single point that you select:



19-point automatic selection: This is the default mode; the camera selects the autofocusing point for you.



Zone AF: The 19 points are divided into five zones, and you select which zone you want to use. The camera typically focuses on the closest object that falls within the selected zone. The center zone contains the most points (nine); the surrounding zones contain just four points each.



Single-point AF: You select one of the 19 points to set the focusing distance. You must then frame your subject so that it falls under that focusing point.



The fastest route to the option you want to use is the AF Area mode button, found on the top of the camera, just in front of the Main dial. If the Shooting Settings display is active, the screen shown in the following figure appears. The icons at the top represent the three AF Area modes; to cycle through them, press the AF Area mode button. (The symbol to the right of the three mode icons reminds you that you must use the button for this job.) You see a similar display in the viewfinder, minus the AF Area button symbol and the touchscreen return symbol.



In the preceding figure, the 19-point Automatic Selection setting is selected, and the focusing brackets in the middle of the screen represent the area that contains the 19 points. If you set the AF mode to AI Servo, which is the continuous autofocusing mode, however, you see 19 rectangles within the brackets, with a single point selected. The camera will use that selected point as the starting focusing distance, but will look to the other 18 points for focusing information if your subject moves from that initial point.



In Zone AF, the displays look like the one you see on the left in the following figure. The brackets indicate which zone is selected; the focus points within the brackets are active. On the left screen in the following figure, for example, the center zone is selected. For Single-point AF, you see just one large rectangle; that's the selected focus point.



To select a different zone or point, press the Multi-controller up, down, left, or right. In Zone AF mode, you also can use the Main dial or Quick Control dial to cycle through the available zones; in Single-point mode, you can select a horizontal point by rotating the Main dial and a vertical point by rotating the Quick Command dial. If you're working with the Shooting Settings display instead of monitoring things through the viewfinder, you can also simply tap the point or zone you want to use (although tapping a single point can be tricky because they're so small).



Here are a few additional related bits of info:



If all three AF Area modes don't appear as available, visit the Custom Functions menu, select the Autofocus category of options, and check the status of the item named Select AF Area Selec. Mode. On this screen, you can enable and disable the individual AF Area modes. By default, all three AF Area modes are enabled, and you see a check mark above each mode icon. If the check mark is gone, the mode is disabled. Bring it back into the game by pressing the Set button and then tapping the mode icon or highlighting it and pressing the Set button again. Tap OK or highlight it and press the Set button to finalize your choice.



In Zone or Single-Point mode, you can quickly select the center focus point or zone by pressing the Set button.



While the AF Area mode button is pressed and the 19-point auto or Zone mode is in force, the bottom of the viewfinder display shows the letters AF next to a dashed rectangle to remind you that the camera will automatically choose the focus point for you. This same readout appears in the LCD panel while the AF Area mode button is pressed.



For Single-Point mode, the displays show the letters SEL plus a bracket symbol when the center point is selected. If you select a different point, you see the letters SEL and AF. Again, these indicators appear only in the viewfinder and LCD panel while the AF Area mode button is pressed.



You also can display the initial AF Area mode selection screen (refer to the first figure of this article) by pressing the AF Point Selection button on the back of the camera. However, you still have to use the AF Area Mode button to cycle through the available settings. It's easy to mix up the purpose of the two buttons, so you may want to use the AF Area Mode button for both tasks and leave the AF Point Selection button out of the mix.
?
2015-05-24 18:35:44 UTC
You will continue to have problems with "everything in focus" if you don't have adequate light, don't use a large f-stop (small aperture), and have both close and far distance subjects. In general, back off the distance from your primary (nearest) subject and you'll have better results.
?
2017-02-11 02:19:13 UTC
1
Ned
2015-05-24 16:35:23 UTC
Stopping down to f22 might be going too far. In theory it could give you even greater focal depth, but after about f16 diffraction is deteriorating sharpness. Of course the way to know is to experiment.
dude
2015-05-28 16:22:50 UTC
It's going to be tough to get everything in focus with a 10mm lens. You are going to have to use something bigger, like a 50mm or even bigger as in 200mm to get a smoother transition.
jeremy f
2015-05-25 15:57:29 UTC
Books are the best way to get the best results from SLR cams. Not sure if there are a lot of online guides? Perhaps.
Martin
2015-05-24 16:17:36 UTC
Thanks for the responses, in terms of the Aperture, i have the Canon - EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS , so im guessing i wont' be able to reach 22 or such.
keerok
2015-05-24 21:15:02 UTC
Use a high f/number which would mean you would have to shoot under very strong lighting conditions.
retiredPhil
2015-05-24 17:54:43 UTC
This tool will help you calculate your depth of field (DOF).

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
AVDADDY
2015-05-24 16:41:22 UTC
Learn your craft & RTFM.


This content was originally posted on Y! Answers, a Q&A website that shut down in 2021.
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